Chinatown San Francisco: What To See & Where To Eat
San Francisco’s Chinatown is the oldest in the United States and second only in size to New York City. A visit to Chinatown is a worthwhile trip if you are staying in San Francisco not only because of the interesting attractions found here and cultural experience you will have, but also to sample the authentic Chinese food you can find here of course.
The Chinatown neighborhood is one of San Francisco’s biggest attractions so you can expect to see many tourists wandering the main streets alongside residents. If you’re looking for a bustling atmosphere, weekends and particularly Saturdays are the busiest days in Chinatown when locals like to do their grocery shopping.
A good place to start your walking tour of Chinatown is on Grant Avenue at the Dragon Gate entrance and then make your way down while you stop in at shops that grab your attention. To immerse yourself in the local culture be sure to head to Stockton Street where you can watch locals bartering over goods or enjoying a game of dice on the sidewalk.
Although seeing Chinatown does not require a full day, be sure to set aside enough time to wander the colorful alleys, visit the vibrant markets, and allow the wonderful aromas to lead you to flavorsome restaurants.
Chinatown: A Brief History
Chinatown’s twenty-four blocks are home to approximately 15,000 Chinese residents which makes this the most densely populated neighborhood in all of San Francisco. The majority of Chinese residing here do not speak any English at all or speak very little.
Since the late 1800’s, Chinatown has been a starting off point for thousands of Chinese immigrants. During the 1960’s a large number of immigrants from Hong Kong began to pour in which is why the Cantonese dialect and food is so prevalent here.
Chinatown serves as the cultural capital for many Chinese residents of San Francisco who continue to travel to the neighborhood even after moving out for their groceries or to visit temples.
Chinatown Orientation
There are two main streets in Chinatown, Grant Avenue and Stockton Street. Grant Avenue is the main tourist street and the one you have most probably seen featured in magazines or in travel guides. This street has Chinatown’s most popular attraction, the Dragon Gate Arch Entrance. This is also where you will find all the tourist type stores selling Chinese souvenirs. The stores do get repetitive and can be a little tacky. There are however a good selection of restaurants on this street.
Stockton Street is where you will have a more authentic experience, complete with markets selling fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, live turtles, and odd food items like frogs. You can also find decent restaurants on this street too.
In between these two streets and in the twenty-four blocks that comprise Chinatown there is a maze of side streets and alleys full of interesting shops and where you can see locals going about their daily lives. Wandering through these alleys will provide a more unique and authentic experience for those who choose to stray from the two main streets mentioned above.
Things To Do In Chinatown
Dragon Gate
The Dragon Gate is probably the most photographed structure in Chinatown and marks the entrance to one of the oldest areas of San Francisco. The entryway which can be found at the southern end of Chinatown on Grant Avenue is the only authentic Chinatown gate in the country.
The gate is based on the ceremonial gates found in Chinese villages called paifang, and unlike similar structures which stand on wooden pillars, this entrance is made of stone from bottom to top completed with a green-tile pagoda roof. Hanging from the center is a plaque inscribed with Chinese characters that translates to “All under heaven is for the good of the people”.
Designed by architect Clayton Lee, the gate conforms to the principles of Feng shui and is a good jumping off point to explore Chinatown.
Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory
The Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Factory produces more than 10,000 fortune cookies a day! And what’s even more amazing than that is they are all made by hand. This San Francisco highlight has been operating since 1962 and you can visit and watch these little treats being made at the store located in Ross Alley. The store can be a little tricky to find so just follow your nose and let the sweet scent guide you there.
The Fortune Cookie Factory bakes their cookies on a copper slow-release heat rotating griddle wheel which are then gently twisted into the famous fortune cookie shape right in front of you. And guess what?! You can sample them afterwards! This particular cookie factory even makes and offers additional flavors to the traditional vanilla flavored cookie. You can try chocolate, strawberry and even a green tea flavor. And for $1 you can even write your own fortune and they will put it inside a fresh cookie just for you.
The store does offer free samples but you can also buy the cookies which come in rather large bags. Keep in mind that this store is cash only though.
Waverly Place
Right next to Ross Alley is Waverly Place, an alley which is lined with colorful brick buildings, painted balconies, and decorative temples like the Tin How Taoist Temple. The alley was featured in the film ‘The Joy Luck Club and ‘The Pursuit of Happiness’.
Old Saint Mary’s Cathedral
The Old Saint Mary’s Cathedral built in 1854 can be found on Grant Avenue at the intersection of Chinatown and the financial district. The cathedral’s stone foundations were cut to order and imported from China but the most prominent feature of the building is the distinctive clock tower where an inscription in gold reads “Son, observe the time and fly from evil.”
The historical landmark which was built in the Gothic Revival style survived through one of San Francisco’s biggest earthquakes in 1906 only to be burnt down one day later by fires started from the earthquake. The fires were so hot they melted the church bells and altar. The church was rebuilt and reopened in 1909 and remains an active parish serving Chinatown and Nob Hill.
Portsmouth Square
Portsmouth Square is considered the ‘heart of Chinatown’. The park features three markers registered as historical landmarks; they honor the first raising of the American flag on the square in 1846, the Eastern Terminus of the Clay Street Hill Railroad, and the 1848 opening of the first public school in California.
The park is a good spot to relax and people watch. Many locals like coming here early in the morning to practice Tai Chi and to play checkers or chess.
Where To Eat In Chinatown
One of the best things about visiting Chinatown in San Francisco is eating authentic Chinese food. There are plenty of lunch time dim sum places to choose from, hidden hole-in-the-wall bakeries, boba bars, noodle restaurants, and more recently, fine dining establishments too. If you’re a foodie you will enjoy wandering the streets and exploring the alley ways in search of a good place to chow down. Below is a list of popular and highly recommended eateries you should try.
Delicious Dim Sum
Delicious Dim Sum is a good spot to grab a quick bite to eat while you continue to explore Chinatown’s streets and alley ways. They have a wide variety of dim sums on the menu including pork buns, Shui Mai and my favorite, sesame balls! Everything on the menu is translated into English so you will be sure to know what you are getting. You can find the small shop on Jackson street.
Golden Gate Bakery
This classic San Francisco Chinese bakery is known among locals as having the best Hong Kong style custard egg tarts in town. And, if the lines out the door are anything to go by, this is probably true.
Don’t let the long line deter you from trying one of their delicious flaky crust pastries filled with creamy egg goodness though because the severs here sling them out very quickly. You can order one for $2.75 or order them by the dozen (cash only) which they’ll place inside a pretty pink box.
This shop is notorious for randomly being closed so much so that there is a facebook page dedicated to the fact called Is The Golden Gate Bakery Open Today? Be sure to check ahead before you visit.
Mister Jiu’s
Tucked away in the Waverly Place alley is Mister Jiu’s, the first high profile restaurant to open in Chinatown. The menu includes traditional and Californian influenced Chinese dishes like Steak fried rice using Wagyu sirloin, sizzled black cod, and tea-smoked duck. The restaurant is Michelin rated so expect a steeply priced menu.
Hong Kong Clay Pot Restaurant
The first thing you’ll notice at this restaurant are all the locals dining here which is always a good sign. The second thing you’ll notice is the communal/shared table seating so be prepared to make friends while you eat. The staff here are extremely friendly and while the interior is nothing too special, it is clean and has a nice atmosphere.
The best part is the food and in particular their signature Hong Kong style clay pot dishes. They have all sorts of clay pot dishes including curry crab, lobster, oxtail, abalone, quail, eggplant, tofu, and even frog. The portions are generous and the meals are very reasonably priced. Finding this restaurant can be difficult as it is located up an unassuming flight of stairs on Grant Avenue.
Slurp Ramen
Slurp Ramen is best known for their variety of tonkotsu ramen which are all made with 100% Bershire pork. The spicy miso tonkotsu ramen is their most popular dish but you can also choose a shoyu broth. If you come at lunch you can make your ramen a combo with gyozas or chicken Karaage.
Getting To Chinatown
To get to Chinatown by streetcar take the California Street Line (which runs east-west from the Financial District through Chinatown to Van Ness Avenue) and get off at California and Grant Avenue. Your other option is to get on the Powell Line and get off at California Avenue and walk three blocks to Grant Avenue. By bus take MUNI bus 3, 8, 30, or 45. There is virtually no parking in or around Chinatown so you are better off not even considering driving there yourself.
Save Money In San Francisco
Best Tours & Activities
- Chinatown Culinary Walking Tour
- San Francisco City Tour
- Hop On Hop Off Bus With Alcatraz Trip & Chinatown Tour
Where To Stay In Chinatown
San Francisco is an expensive city, especially when it comes to accommodation. There is really no way to avoid the high hotel prices and staying here on a budget is difficult. Hotels that have lower prices are often not in safe neighborhoods so it is worth spending the extra and staying in a mid-range priced hotel. See recommendations for the best hotels below.
Budget Hotels:
The StayPineapple is an upscale hotel located in Union Square steps from the city’s best shopping and dining. Stays come with signature lightweight robes, equator coffee, unlimited bottled water, beach cruiser bikes, and pineapple treats. See rates here.
The Hilton is a reasonably priced hotel in Union Square near Westfield shopping center. This 4-star hotel features two restaurants, a lobby bar, outdoor pool, and the highest rooftop bar in San Francisco. See rates here.
Mid-Range Hotels:
The Kimpton Alton Hotel is a 4.5 star hotel located in the Fisherman’s Wharf area. This hotel features a bar, lounge, 24 hour fitness center and is one block from San Francisco Bay. See rates here.
The iconic Argonaut Hotel is housed inside the historic Haslett Warehouse building in the Fisherman’s Wharf district. Guests can enjoy waking to views of San Francisco Bay, Alcatraz, and the Golden Gate Bridge before venturing next door to Ghirardelli Square and Hyde Street Pier. See rates here.
Luxury Hotels:
The graceful and stately Fairmont hotel sits atop Nob Hill in the Financial District offering panoramic views of San Francisco. This luxury hotel has a reputation for impeccable service and is the perfect stay for romantic getaways and relaxing retreats. See rates here.
The Ritz Carlton is a luxury hotel located near Union Square. Rooms and suites come in crisp whites, deep blues, and rich grays to inspire tranquility. See rates here.
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